Wednesday, 2 January 2013

The Individual Work of Art | Demi-Couture by VIONNET


1st Demi Couture Spring/Summer 2013 collection by VIONNET

The exterior of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild was illuminated with projections of the VIONNET emblem when a black-tie-attired crowd arrived to celebrate the brand’s 100th anniversary on September 30th, 2012. Upon arrival, guests were escorted up a grand marble staircase for cocktails before a sit-down dinner and runway presentation. “I want to make my New York apartment look like this,” said model Karlie Kloss, who was wearing turquoise Vionnet, as she admired the interior ballroom.

What we witnessed at the legendary house’s presentation was a stunning demonstration of minimal style. The collection mixed sleek jumpsuits and Grecian-style gowns with plunging necklines in an elegant color palette of black white and red.

Matteo Marzotto, co-owner of the company, sat front and center for a feast of foie gras and sea bass. “I started thinking about this years ago,” he said of the centennial party. “I did four years working day and night. Now it’s 2012, and it’s been 100 years. I feel so respectful towards Madeleine Vionnet. Everything I did so far was trying to respect the story of this brand, the DNA, and the energy behind it.”

Russian beauty Goga Ashkenazi, who is the new co-owner of Vionnet, spent the majority of the evening busily styling models in the new demi-couture line that was shown during the dinner. “It’s not a business for me, it’s a passion,” she said.

When the show was over and the tables were cleared, she sighed in relief, “I feel like everything in my life has led up to this. I am loving what I am doing.”

The capsule range includes 20 one of a kind gowns which have been inspired by the founder Madeleine Vionnet who was dubbed the ‘Queen of the bias cut’.

Taking the brand into its second century, they went back to their origins and added touches for the modern woman. They kept the use of bias constructions and added bows, laser cut detailing and embroidery – the end result modern Grecian.

A press release stated that: ‘Each work is an individual work of art’ and that each piece will ‘come alive on the body’.

The made to measure items will be priced between ready-to-wear and haute couture and will be available to buy in VIONNET’s flagship Milan store, Palazzo Premoli.

About Goga Ashkenazy

"Gorgeous Goga" - Ms. Goga Ashkenazi published in the first Issue of Elle Luxe Italia, December 2012. "A glamorous, adventurous life. From being raised in Kazakhstan to acquiring and becoming creative director of Vionnet, one of the most prestigious fashion houses. For the first time Goga Ashkenazi opens the doors to her new home right in the heart of Milan."

About the former designer of VIONNET

In August 2012 the French fashion label Vionnet has confirmed that current designers Barbara and Lucia Croce have “interrupted their collaboration” with the brand. The news comes following a reported falling out between the new owner Goga Ashkenazi and the sisters. A statement from the brand added that with a less than a month until the start of Paris Fashion Week that the work on the current Spring/Summer 2013 collection “will be carried out by the in-house design team”, and that the brand will still be celebrating its 100th anniversary with the introduction of its Demi Couture collection.

The sisters were first hired in October 2011 by former owners Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni, who remain as shareholders of the label. At the time, Marzotto said that they were chosen to success Rodolfo Paglialunga's two-year stint at VIONNET because they "have strong personalities and they’ve worked in international contexts".

The Croces, two Italian-born sisters, replace Rodolfo Paglialunga, who had been creative director since 2009. The house of VIONNET was relaunched in 2006, after being shuttered for five decades, and is controlled by Marzotto and his business partner, Gianni Castiglioni, husband of Consuelo Castiglioni, the designer of red-hot Milan fashion forward label Marni.

Barbara and Lucia Croce join Vionnet with impressive resumes, honed over a decade and half in the upper echelons of Continental fashion houses. Between them, the pair have held senior design posts with such prominent international fashion companies such as Prada, Miu Miu, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Ter et Bantine, Valentino and Neil Barrett.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: The House of VIONNET

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